| Axe |
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An axe can be a very useful tool in camp. Note however that
there are many different types of axe and they tend to be
suitable for a limited range of work. In Scouting this should
not present too much of a problem as we tend not to use the
more 'specialist' types of axes.
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| Axe - Names of Parts |
Darren Dowling
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Axe Parts
Axe Parts
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| Sharpening an Axe |
Darren Dowling
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Sharpening an Axe
An axe with a blunt edge becomes no more than an inefficient
hammer, and indeed a great deal more dangerous as you struggle
to use it. Always keep your axe sharp. For large 'burrs' a
file is probably your best bet. Make sure you use the file
correctly though, it will only work in one direction, it works
when pushed, not pulled.
To sharpen your axe prop the axehead between a log and a
peg driven into the ground. Always try to sharpen inwards
from the cutting edge (to avoid producing any burrs). First
use a file or rough stone to remove any burrs and rucks. Then
finish with a smoother stone, using a circular motion. Don't
drag the stone off the cutting edge, push on to the blade.
Turn the axe over and repeat the process, circling in the
opposite direction.
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| Chopping Areas |
Darren Dowling
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| When chopping wood at camp, you will need to
create a specific chopping area. Choose a site that is fairly
close to the fire and clear of any obstructions (not only on
the ground. Ensure there are no overhead obstructions that could
catch your axe as you swing). Make a circle that is at least
2m (6 ft) in radius (or at least 3 axe lengths). Rope this area
off and ensure it is clearly marked. Make sure that everyone
knows where the chopping area is. No loose clothing should be
taken into the area, and no one should enter the area without
strong shoes or boots (and of course checking it is safe to
enter).
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| Using an Axe |
Darren Dowling
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Most people with have a 'prime' hand and a natural swing.
Always use the axe in a way that is comfortable to you, swinging
in an arc that feels natural. Make sure you have a firm grip,
and always swing AWAY from your body, hands, and legs. Ensure
that if you miss your intended target and follow through,
the axe will not strike you or anyone else. Never throw an
axe on the ground, always sheath it or bury it in a log.
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| Tree Felling |
Darren Dowling
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Main Cuts
Before you do anything else, check overhead for dead branches
which may fall and injure you, and for things like hornets nests.
Clear the area around the tree of any undergrowth or branches
that could deflect your blows. If the tree has a particularly
large spread of roots or boles around the base you may want
to construct a platform so that you can reach a thinner part
of the trunk and save time and effort. Obviously if you do this
make sure the platform is stable and you have a clear route
of escape (in case something goes wrong!).
Cut from both sides of the tree. First you chop a notch
out at an angle of about 45 degrees and then another on the
opposite side at a lower level, on the side which you want
the tree to fall.
Do not cut through more than half the tree before starting
the other notch.
You must work at a height that is comfortable for you. Try
to cut downwards at 45 degrees (you may need a horizontal
cut occasionally to clear debris etc.).
Hitting Angle
A steady rhythm of blows will cut much more efficiently than
fewer big blows. If you put too much effort
behind the axe your aim will suffer, you will tire and then
every swing becomes more dangerous. Always let the weight
of the axe do the work.
Alternating the angle of the stroke will prevent the axe
from jamming. Too steep an angle will cause the axe to glance
off, end-on will make the axe jam (or simply be inefficient).
Try to aim for a 45 degree angle.
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| Splitting Logs |
Darren Dowling
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Splitting Logs
For a large log, as before, stand behind the
log with your feet well apart. Swing down the cut the side away
from you. Do not chop downwards. If you wish to split a smaller
log, lay it against another log. Do not put your foot on it.
There is an alternative to this though, hold the smaller log
against the cutting edge and bring them both down together on
to a larger log.
If in doubt, or if you have any difficulty, split larger
logs with a wedge and a rock. Do not hold the wood upright
in your hand and try to split with an axe.
Hitting Angle
When chopping branches from a large log, always stand on
the side away from the axe. Always cut branches from the outside
of the fork, not the inside.
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| Making an Axe |
Darren Dowling
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| First you will need to select the wood for your
handle, any straight, knot-free hardwood will be suitable (ash
and hickory are ideal). Cut two notches into the fluke of a
buttress, spaced to the desired handle length. Hit along the
side of the fluke close to the cuts. It will split away at their
depth.
Next you will need to fit the head. Whittle the handle into
shape with one end cut to fit the hole in the axehead. Make
sure you cut a notch in this end that is going into the axe
head and make a wedge to fit the notch. With the head in place,
drive the wedge into the notch and then soak the axe in water
overnight (this will tighten the head onto the handle as it
soaks up the water). Always check your axehead for tightness
before you use them.
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| Carrying an Axe |
Darren Dowling
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| Carry an axe by holding it just under the head.
Point the blade down or away from you to minimize the chance
you will fall on top of the blade if you trip
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| Fitting an Axe with a Handle |
Darren Dowling
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| If the head is loose you can soak the axe for
a few hours in a bucket of water but this will only ever be
a temporary fix (the wood will swell and the handle will be
tight for a little while). Ideally you need to replace the handle
or at least replace the wedge.
Saw off the old handle close to the axe head (Note: you should
not just burn the handle off as this will cause the bit to
lose its temper, note the above arrangements) and drill out
the wood that is left in the axe head. You can punch the rest
of the wood backward from the handle side and then clean inside
the hole.
Get the new handle and pound it into the head. Make sure
the handle passes out the other side by at least an inch.
Also be sure that the new handle is correctly aligned.
Put some glue on a wedge and in the slit for the wedge in
the end of the handle (you did make a slit didn't you?) and
then drive in the wedge. You can now saw off the excess handle
and wedge.
It would be a good idea to fix the wooden wedge in place
with a steel wedge, placed diagonal to the wooden wedge.
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| Broken handles |
Darren Dowling
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Broken Handles
Using an axe takes a lot of practice and occasionally
along the way handles get broken. This usually occurs when the
head misses the target and the handle takes all the force from
the blow. To remove a broken handle, the easiest way is to put
it in a fire, burying as much as possible of the metal in the
earth (to prevent it losing temper).
Never attempt to repair an axe handle
Never use any axe that has a damaged or split handle.
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